Test & Measurement
Megger Logo, 85 Multimeter, FLIR TG298, and Where to Buy FLIR Thermal Cameras
If you've ever searched for 'megger' and ended up confused, this one's for you. These are the questions I get most often as someone who reviews test instruments before they go out the door. No fluff—just answers.
Is 'Megger' a Brand or a Type of Tester?
Short answer: both, and that's the problem.
Megger is a brand. It's also what a lot of electricians call any insulation resistance tester. I assumed the two were the same thing when I started reviewing purchase orders. Didn't verify. A supplier sent us a different brand because the PO said 'megger' and they interpreted it as a generic insulation tester. The customer rejected it because they wanted a genuine Megger unit. A lesson learned the hard way.
So if you're writing a spec, make the distinction clear. 'megger' with a lowercase m often means insulation tester; 'Megger' with a capital M means the brand. If you don't care about the brand, fine. But if your company has a preference, put it in black and white. As someone who reviews 200+ product lines a year, I can tell you that generic product names cost more time than they save.
Why Does the Megger Logo Matter?
It took me four years and about 150 serious product reviews to understand that the logo isn't decoration. It's a traceability mark. The Megger logo tells you the unit came through Megger's factory, with their QA process, their warranty, and their calibration documentation. Counterfeit and re-branded units exist, and they often don't carry the logo properly.
I've seen customers buy what looks like a Megger test instrument from an online auction, then discover it's a used unit with the logo worn off and no calibration certificate. The price was tempting. Not ideal, but not the end of the world. The problem is they couldn't verify its history. Put another way: the logo is the visible beginning of a paper trail. If the logo isn't clear, assume the paper trail isn't either.
That said, don't judge a brand solely by a logo. I've seen blank-label instruments work fine. But when you're paying for Megger, make sure the logo matches the model and serial number. Details like that are what separate quality from 'looks fine.'
What Should I Look for in an 85 Multimeter?
If you mean the Megger 85 multimeter, the exact feature set depends on which generation you're looking at. I can't give you a spec sheet from memory without seeing the label—and anyone who does is guessing. What I can tell you: the model number matters less than the safety rating and calibration status.
For a meter labeled '85,' check the CAT rating. If it says CAT III 600V, it's built for distribution-level electrical work. If it only says CAT II, treat it as an electronics meter. Same shape, very different risk profile. Also check whether the AC voltage bandwidth is meaningful for your work. Some meters are fine at 50/60 Hz. Others handle variable-frequency drives. That difference shows up in the price.
My experience is based on B2B instrument distribution, not on every '85' multimeter ever made. If you're working on high-voltage equipment, you need a meter with an explicit safety rating and a current calibration certificate. The model number is just the beginning.
Is the FLIR TG298 Thermal Imaging Camera Worth It?
The TG298 is a real workhorse if you need a spot thermal camera for electrical panels, motors, and building diagnostics. It gives you a 160×120 IR sensor, MSX image blending so you can read labels in the thermal image, and a measurement range up to 1030°C. Not bad for a handheld unit. It's not a replacement for a high-resolution thermal camera, and I wouldn't pretend otherwise.
What impresses me as a quality person is how the laser distance measurement and the visual camera work together. You don't get the 'where exactly am I measuring?' guesswork you get on cheaper models. That matters when you're justifying a repair decision to a customer.
The catch: the TG298 is only as good as the emissivity setting you choose. A shiny metal surface can read far lower than the actual temperature. So get the operator's manual out and test on known references. A thermal camera doesn't remove judgment—it gives you better data to make a judgment.
Where to Buy FLIR Thermal Cameras?
Short version: from an authorized distributor, or directly from FLIR. Everything else is a risk.
I've seen marketplace listings that say 'new in box' with prices that look amazing. Then the serial number isn't in FLIR's system, or the warranty card is missing, or the firmware is ancient. Maybe it works. Maybe it doesn't. When I look at a listing, the first question isn't 'how much?' It's 'can you prove this unit's history?' If the seller can't, walk away.
Per FTC guidelines (ftc.gov), claims about product condition, warranty, and performance need to be substantiated. That applies to the listing as much as to the manufacturer. So ask for the serial number, ask for a copy of the calibration certificate, and confirm whether the warranty is transferable. A reputable distributor won't hesitate to answer. One that rushes you? That's a red flag.
No distributor has every FLIR model in stock at all times. But a good one will order the right TG298 for you and register the warranty. The value isn't speed—it's certainty. Certainty about warranty, firmware, and calibration is worth more than a small discount on a sticker price.
What's the One Thing People Forget When Buying Test Equipment?
Calibration certificates. Boring, I know. But it's the one item people skip until they're in the middle of an audit.
I used to think calibration certificates were just paperwork. In our Q1 2024 quality audit, we shipped an instrument with an expired calibration date, and a client's quality manager flagged it during a customer audit. An $18,000 project got held up for three weeks while we waited for a replacement. Not the equipment's fault. It was our process fault.
So when you buy any meter—Megger, FLIR TG298, you name it—ask when the calibration was done and when it expires. If you need the certificate for an ISO 9001 or client-specific requirement, check the NIST traceability statement before you pay. Don't assume 'expired' is fine because you're not sending the report to anyone. Paperwork is part of the product.
That's the part nobody puts in the marketing photo. But it's the part that protects your schedule, your budget, and your reputation.